surfing

Surfing is style, and the epitome of style is Gerry Lopez dropping on a massive wave at Pipeline while impassively scratching his nose.

The usual surf session is on weekdays. Dawn patrol in days with no morning meetings. It’s seldom a solitary activity in the summer, but it can be in winter days when the forecast doesn’t show size. The break is Malibu Surfrider Beach. I used to walk down to